February 16, 2018
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Day 10 – Record Shopping in Rio!!!

When first getting to know someone while traveling, they will eventually ask you ‘SO, why did you decide to travel to ______’.

Giving the answer that it is the genre of music ‘Tropicalia’ that turned you on to Brazil is just as confusing to any Brazilian as it is to basically anyone else. It’s like going to the UK because you are passionate about New Wave (if New Wave was exclusively British). Everyone will look at you like you are maybe very bad with your money or possibly a shabby looking rich person.

Regardless! I finally found a record store in Brazil and it is even called Tropicalia Discos!!! It was located in a building that looked liked it was built for offices or perhaps: a private investigator! It’s already pretty exciting, right?!

Entering the record shop felt like I was entering a room I wanted to hug (I’m not super into hugs). I was with Chris, so I had to keep somewhat chill and also be somewhat aware that watching a person flipping through records is probably only bearable for about 15 minutes.

I ask the store owner for recommendations and he starts playing me records (!!!!!) I dance around the store looking through the shelves, wishing I could keep them all. Wishing I had hours and not minutes to listen to one side after another.

I was so enamored with the store that I didn’t take pictures- thank god for google.

This is my happy place:

The reason I love Tropicalia is that it is an incredible hybrid on Hendrix, The Beatles, Dylan, African beats, Samba, and Bossa Nova. Right when you think you are listening to a rock song, it zags into a Bossa Nova beat. It’s also the most BADASS genre because it was a part of a whole movement of artists against the military dictatorship in Brazil. It eventually landed the leaders of the movement: Caetano Veloso and Gilberto Gil in jail and then led to their exile to London.

There is a great podcast that goes through this history of Tropicalia. A must-listen if you love music and the history of music:

http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p03hjvv7

Yesterday I was sent an interview with Quincy Jones, who spends most of the article pontificating about how producers today are lazy, among other disturbing things. But then, somewhat out of the blue he says:

You like Brazilian music?

Yeah, but I don’t know much beyond Jorge Ben and Gilberto Gil.
Gilberto Gil and Caetano Veloso are the kings! You know, I visit the favelas every year. Those motherfuckers have a hard life. They’re tough, though. You think our shit in America’s bad? It’s worse there.

(Link to article)

Song of the day:

Caetano Veloso – Tropicalia

February 15, 2018
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Day 9 – Last day in Recreio

I feel a little sad writing this because I loved spending time in Recreio, and sometimes after traveling to a place you love very much, you wonder if you will ever make it back. If you do, will you enjoy it in the way that you did before? Will it still be the same?

The sunsets, the beaches, the mountains, the friends. The Brazilians, that despite our language barrier, still took me in.

I end up not having enough time to visit the beach one last time, but later in the day Chris and I chat on the copacabana beach and I hear them play a club mix version of Fade Into you, which has been rolling around in my head, like I have willed it into existence.

Remote beach sunsets

Pre-coffee, pre-surf

Hostel- Rio Surf n’ Stay

Song of the Day

Mazzy Star – Fade into you

February 15, 2018
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Day 8 – Sugarloaf Mountain

Day 8

I take an Uber from Recreio to do some sightseeing in Rio proper with Chris. I am not one for touristy type stuff, but Rio is just so striking to me- this juxtaposition of city and nature. It finds a way to endear itself to my curiosity. I walk down one street and it reminds me of New York, the next like Barcelona- then suddenly you are confronted with these stunning mountains and favelas. There is so much to love and so much to fear.

I meet Chris for a drink and nachos. When it suddenly starts to rain, he buys us both a massive umbrella each (in Portuguese, so I can’t protest).They will be used for all 10 minutes and are now probably the property of a nice hotel employee. We head to sugarloaf mountain via cab (it’s Chris so we don’t walk, obviously) and then via cable car.

Brazilians are incredibly religious and when you see the view from sugarloaf mountain, it’s easy to understand why. It is simply breathtaking, otherworldly, transcendent.

I think I will just post some pictures instead of trying to explain.

I also had my first official Brazilian caipirinha on sugarloaf!!! At this point (many days later) I have had to take a break from them as my tongue is raw from the limes. Nonetheless, this caipirinha was particularly delicious atop sugarloaf mountain.

The Christ Redeemer hides among a cluster of clouds for my entire visit to sugarloaf. He continues to hide for the rest of my stay in Rio. Days later, on my way to the airport I look up to the obscured Christ redeemer. That’s okay, I think, I’ve had enough of you anyway.

Song of the day:

Sergio Mendes & Brasil ’66 – Mais Que Nada